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01-08-2016 | Original Article

Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance

Authors: Simon Fryer, Lee Stoner, K. Stone, D. Giles, Joakim Sveen, Inma Garrido, Vanesa España-Romero

Published in: European Journal of Applied Physiology | Issue 8/2016

Abstract

Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e., skeletal muscle oxidative capacity.

Purpose

The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities.

Methods

Using near-infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen resaturation (O₂HTR) following 3–5 min of ischemia.

Results

Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI, and training experience, revealed a 1-s decrease in O₂HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95 % CI 0.35–0.94, Adj R ² = 0.53).

Conclusions

Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top four competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, this finding suggests that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock-climbing performance.

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Title: Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance
Authors: Simon Fryer
Lee Stoner
K. Stone
D. Giles
Joakim Sveen
Inma Garrido
Vanesa España-Romero
Publication date: 01-08-2016
Publisher: Springer Berlin Heidelberg
Published in: European Journal of Applied Physiology / Issue 8/2016
Print ISSN: 1439-6319
Electronic ISSN: 1439-6327
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00421-016-3403-1

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Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance

Abstract

Purpose

Methods

Results

Conclusions

Keynote webinar | Spotlight on sleep in brain health

Springer Medicine

Abstract

Purpose

Methods

Results

Conclusions

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