Abstract
Christopher Columbus never achieved his explorer’s dream of sailing west to reach the East with its promise of spices and gold, but instead he unwittingly set in motion the greatest food exchange of all time. Indeed, Columbus’s voyages made possible a gastronomic treasury and a nutritional status never before dreamed of (Goldblith, 1992). In the closing years of the 18th century the food plants grown in what would soon become known as the Old and the New World were almost completely different. No one crop was a significant source of food for both ‘worlds’. But the advent of the European voyages of discovery was to change all that as a multitude of new foods made their way to the Old World, where they were adopted, adapted and in many cases reintroduced to America by new generations of settlers and immigrants. Some 400 years later fully one third of all plant crops used to feed humans and animals are of New World origin (Crosby, 1972). From the New World came maize, beans, peanuts, potato, sweet potato, manioc (cassava), squashes, pumpkin, papaya, guava, avocado, pineapple, tomato, chile pepper and cocoa. Together, these made the single most valuable addition to food-producing plants of the Old World since the beginning of agriculture. (Crosby, 1972). From the Old World to the New came bananas, sugar and coffee.
The Food Exchange
How many of us still believe that the potato originated in Ireland? That the Mediterranean, and particularly Italy, is the ancestral hearth of the tomato and its tradition of savoury sauces? That the fiery chile pepper is an ancient and enduring part of the cuisines of Indian and Southeast Asia? That the pineapple is as native to Hawaii as chocolate is to Vienna?
Elizabeth Rozin (1992)
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Further Reading
For a detailed account of the impact of Columbus’ voyages, which goes beyond food, see Crosby (1972). For comprehensive accounts of the history and role of food plants, Simmonds’ (1976) edited book provides concise overviews of individual foods, while Heiser (1990) presents a contextual treatment which is highly recommended. Root (1980) and Masefield et al. (1969) are also excellent sources.
Accounts of the cuisines of over 100 ethnic groups in Canada are included in Barer-Stein’s comprehensive study. Her book also includes valuable background information on topics such as special occasions and home life (Barer-Stein, 1979).
The major reference source for the wild foods section was The Hidden Harvest: Wild Foods and Agricultural Systems. A literature review and annotated bibliography, edited by Scoones, Melnyk and Pretty and published jointly by the World Wide Fund for Nature, the Swedish International Development Agency and the International Institute for Environment and Development. Over 900 annotated citations are included, providing a wealth of information to which the interested reader is referred.
Hunt’s comprehensive book on wild foods in contemporary North America contains over 300 recipes plus information on nutritional contributions of selected wild foods, and useful cooking tips such as ‘To remove the gamey taste from a beaver, add a tablespoon of coffee to the water when parboiling’ and ‘When cooking the snapping turtle; after removing the head, be very careful not to touch the head for at least 24 hours, as the nerves remain alive for at least that amount of time.’ Many of the recipes are derived from a research project conducted by the Lovesick Lake Native Women’s Association in Ontario. Hunt, D. (ed.) (1992), Native Indian Wild Game, Fish and Wild Foods Cookbook, Fox Chapel Publishing, Lancaster, Pennsylvania.
Two books by Margaret Visser explore the everyday anthropology of eating. Much Depends on Dinner, (McClelland and Stewart, Toronto 1986) focuses on foods selected for an everyday meal, while The Rituals of Dinner (HarperCollins, Toronto, 1991) is a wide-ranging examination of the origins, evolution, and meaning of table manners in historical and contemporary societies.
Stephen Mennel (All Manners of Food, Blackwell Science, Oxford, 1985) provides a fascinating social history of the development of cookery in England and France, over the past four centuries.
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Fieldhouse, P. (1995). Cuisine. In: Food and Nutrition. Springer, Boston, MA. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4899-3256-3_3
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